By Jeff Silverstein
I’ve been lucky enough to ski at some pretty amazing places over the years – Whistler, Kitzbuhel, Aspen, Alpe d’Huez – but there has always been one place that was conspicuously missing from my bucket list – B.C.’s legendary Powder Highway.
It’s no secret just how incredible the skiing is in this celebrated corner of British Columbia. It’s got some of the deepest, most consistent snow, and some of the best off-piste, back country skiing. So when the invitation landed in my in-box to join a group of adrenaline-addicted skiers for some deep snow, I was all in.
This seven million acre region in the southeast corner of B.C. has become a magnet for skiers from around the world.
If you look at a map, the Powder Highway actually carves a 700-mile circular route through the Kootenay Rockies and consists of no fewer than eight world class ski resorts, over 20 backcountry lodges and some of the world’s most renowned cat and heli-skiing operations.
The Purcells, Selkirks, Monashees and Rocky Mountains are a vast mountain wilderness of rock spires and undulating glaciers and so when you throw into the mix some of the coolest, most laidback authentic mountain towns, it’s no surprise the Powder Highway is considered the living, breathing embodiment of ski culture at its very best.
But like any journey, no matter how long or short, before heading off for what is arguably some of the best skiing in North America, it requires a bit of planning and some inside knowledge to make the most of your precious ski days.
The good news is, no matter where you start, or how many days you have to ski, you can’t really go wrong.
“Mother nature is an incredible artist,” says Matt Mosteller, a long-time ski bum in the area and now Senior VP with Resorts of the Canadian Rockies, owners and operators of three of the eight resorts (Fernie, Kicking Horse and Kimberley). “These mountains and valleys are not only jaw droppingly beautiful, but the region also happens to be one of the most consistent snow zones in the world. When you add in the incredible diversity of terrain and wonderful mountain communities full of passionate people you have the perfect ski destination.”
That consistent snow zone is key, especially given all of the wild weather swings we are seeing in other parts of the world these days. Unpredictable snow conditions and global warming have radically changed the way people book their ski trips, with many opting to book more spontaneously, using social media to follow the snow. In the case of the Powder Highway, that is fortunately much less of an issue.
When you take a look at the map, you’ll immediately recognize many of the place names along the Powder Highway – places like Revelstoke, Nelson, Panorama, Red Mountain, Whitewater, Invermere and Golden – names that have become synonymous with world-class skiing and snowboarding.
These are some of the snowiest mountains in Canada – perfect for connoisseurs of the high and wild.
To ski all eight resorts would realistically take a good two to three weeks. For our 10-day Canadian ski safari, we managed to squeeze in four resorts and a day of heli-skiing for what would wind up being an unforgettable mountain journey.
REVELSTOKE
Our first stop would be Revelstoke, or Revy, as it’s affectionately known. It has the highest vertical of any mountain in North America and over 3,000 acres of skiable terrain – not as big as Whistler, but when you throw into the mix a ton of dependable snow every year, the longest ski run on the continent, and no lift lines, this is the real deal for hardcore skiers looking for vertical and some serious terrain.
This gritty resort nestled in the Monashee and Selkirk mountain ranges also happens to be ground zero for some incredible heli-ski operators. The terrain at Revelstoke Mountain Resort is mostly steep and ungroomed, with top to bottom blacks and excellent tree skiing, but make no mistake, it’s got lots to offer all levels of skiers. The piste grading looks something like this: 7% green, 46% blue, 47% black.
Most folks heading to Revelstoke fly in to Kelowna International Airport, about a two-and-half hour drive from the resort. Before we headed northeast on Highway 97 for the drive we decided to grab a bite at Upside Cider which happens to be less than 10 minutes from the airport. It has its own organic farm and some kickass craft cider and woodfire pizza.
Fueled up, we set off for Revy, ready for the legendary powder, big mountain terrain and small town charm. The resort only opened in 2007, but people have been skiing here since the late 1800s when Swiss mountain guides first introduced the sport to the region.
That intrepid spirit still pulls people to these mountains and towns that dot the area, which is part of the Powder Highway’s secret sauce. Locals call it the Kootenay vibe – a place that appeals to people looking for adventure and a sense of community.
For a small mountain town, which is just under a 10 minute drive from the resort and serviced by a regular shuttle, the art and food scene is way more than you would expect in a town of 8000 souls. Arts Revelstoke alone delivers 60 nights of live music downtown in the summer as well as programming throughout the year, and there’s some fantastic dining and accommodation options in town.
And even at the ski resort itself, that authentic, independent streak pops up in unexpected places on the mountain. The Revelstoke Outdoor Art Movement (ROAM) is an initiative that has transformed the mountain into a canvas for some incredible art. Hidden within the boundaries of the resort, there are a number of installations that aren’t marked on any map. It’s just you, serendipity and the ski trails leading the way.
Many of the materials used in the installations come from the very things that define the ski and bike culture of Revelstoke – old skis, snowboards, climbing skins, ski goggles, boots, bike tires, and even retired boot tongues.
These are all plays on words but the standout is The Masterpiste Gallery – a collection of 22 pieces crafted from recycled skis and snowboards. Each piece is a nod to some of the world’s most famous paintings. There’s Vincent Van Snow’s Self Portrait or Leonardo Da Vinski’s Mona Skisa.
The collective represents the work of many local artists. All together there are nearly 60 incredible pieces scattered throughout 15 locations on the mountain – it isn’t just cool and fun but it captures the independent spirit that imbues the mountain culture.
As for the runs themselves, don’t be fooled by the trail map. The top in-bounds elevation is Mt. Mackenzie at 8,058 feet, which rises from the base area at 1,680 feet. And there are 75 runs throughout the 3,121 acres. The Ripper chair offers some shorter greens and the Stellar Lift has terrain suitable for beginners. But the rest of the resort is a playground for intermediate and expert skiers, combining the best of resort skiing with a big mountain backcountry feel.
It’s why Formula 1’s Lance Stroll who drives for Aston Martin has a place here, along with many other celebrities and captains of industry who like it largely because it’s off the radar just enough but still accessible – a kind of reverse snobbery from say having a place in Whistler. Stroll calls the mountain the best playground on earth.
KICKING HORSE & GOLDEN
Next up would be Kicking Horse – just over a two hour drive from Revy northeast along Highway 1, also known as the Trans-Canada Highway.
This mountain seems to attract a different breed of skier. With its steep terrain it has earned a bit of a reputation as being one of the most challenging mountains in the Rockies. It too also happens to have great snow conditions.
Dubbed the Champagne Powder Capital of Canada, it has five expansive alpine bowls – Cyrstal Bowl, Bowl Over, Feuz Bowl, Super Bowl, and Rudi’s Bowl. But it’s the quality of the snow here that sets this place apart – it’s lighter and more consistent because of its location within the Columbia Mountains. It’s not only dryer, but it’s cooler and less humidity prevails.
If you live here, locals like to say there’s the 20 cm rule – that’s when shops close and people head to the mountain for fresh tracks.
When you first set eyes on the mountain, steep and deep are the first two words that spring to mind, but it’s the terrain once again that sets this mountain apart.
With several long and steep chutes to choose from – Whitewall being a local favourite – and short lift lines, you can quickly see how the resort has become a haven for skiing enthusiasts in search of the high and wild.
While much of the terrain is advanced or expert with many double blacks, there are options. The piste grading looks something like this: Beginner – 20%, Intermediate – 20%, Advanced – 45%, Expert – 15%.
With more black runs than any other grades, there’s plenty of inbound ridges and bumps to challenge even the most advanced skier. For fresh lines and steeps, try taking the Stairway to Heaven to the top of Feuz Bowl.
We found a great place to start the day was at the Double Black Café – a fiercely independent, bustling little spot that makes a mean cortado. You can grab a coffee here for your gondola ride up into the alpine.
With 4314 vertical feet of terrain below you, you’ll be stoked and ready to ski terrain featured on the Freeride World Tour as you head over to the newly opened Ozone, Middle Ridge and Rudi’s Bowl areas.
Terminator Peak is another adrenaline filled descent for those up to the challenge. In either of these zones – Terminator 1 or Terminator 2 – if you are new to the mountain it’s essential that you connect with a local to show you the lines in order to make your way down safely. Every day at 10am and 1pm, you can meet up with a Snow Host at no charge under the Mountain Tours sign in the Gondola Plaza and they will give you a one hour top to bottom orientation of the mountain before you try and tackle it.
For adrenaline-pumping experiences, some must-do runs include Cloud Nine, Sluiceway, Show Off, Kicking Horse, Grizzly Paw, Wolverine and Beaver Tail.
Take a break for lunch (or dinner) at the Eagle’s Eye Restaurant – Canada’s most elevated dining experience. Perched atop the mountains at 7,700 feet, the wild boar poutine, elk burger and Caesar cocktail are legendary.
It’s also the only place in the Purcells or Columbia Mountains where you can stay overnight at the top of the mountain. There are two suites each priced at $1299 per night that come complete with a private chef, butler service, guaranteed first tracks in the morning, a full day pass and some of the most staggering majestic mountain views on earth.
The lack of a mid-station at Kicking Horse is a bit of an issue, but on balance this is epic skiing at its best. And like Revy, the people who live in the town of Golden which is a 20 minute drive from the base of the mountain, are incredibly invested in the community.
Andy Brown from Tourism Golden embodies this spirit. When we got to Golden we had dinner with Andy at a great local spot called Eleven22 Restaurant. Andy explained that he arrived in Golden 16 years ago “to sleep on a friend’s couch and figure life out” and he hasn’t left. No surprise. Unlike other iconic towns in the Canadian Rockies like Banff and Lake Louise which struggle with over tourism, Golden remains unspoiled and uncrowded.
And it isn’t just the epic skiing that pulls people here. It’s a year-round playground within easy reach of six of Canada’s most stunning national parks – Yoho, Glacier, Banff, Jasper, Kootenay and Mount Revelstoke – and is the reason why Golden is sometimes referred to as the Heart of the Parks.
Up on the mountain in summer there’s a Via Ferrata climbing course accessible via a 15 minute hike along Terminator Ridge. In town there’s over 180km of singletrack cross-country bike trails along three different trail networks, not to mention some amazing backcountry lodges, world-class rafting and paragliding, and the Columbia Wetlands – one of the largest contiguous systems of wetland habitats in North America right on the doorstep.
Toby Barrett, Manager of Revenue and Guest Experience at Kicking Horse, moved here years ago from North Vancouver. Like Andy, he hasn’t looked back. “The terrain and the snow are the big draw, but the community here in nearby Golden is awesome,” says Toby. ”People here genuinely want to enjoy these mountains and valley in an unpretentious, more understated way. There’s no ego – people quietly go about chasing their passion.”
CMH HELI SKIING
Before leaving Golden for the second half of our Powder Highway safari, we opted for a quick powder hit and a day of fresh turns and big views with CMH Heli-Skiing & Summer Adventures.
CMH Purcell is smack in the middle of the Powder Highway and is a perfect option to seamlessly add in a day of heli-skiing into your Powder Highway adventure, especially if you aren’t ready for a multi-day commitment.
Less than 10 minutes out of Golden, the logistics were a piece of cake. CMH are celebrating 60 years of being in operation and these guys practically invented the sport of heli-skiing. It was six decades ago that the sport first took flight among the granite spires of the Bugaboos in British Columbia. The date was April 5, 1965, and they would go on to become the world’s first commercial heli-ski guests.
After an hour-long safety and orientation session, we were ready to head out into the backcountry and ski what would end up being well in excess of 10,000 vertical feet. Taking into account snow conditions, weather and a variety of other factors our guides carefully selected what would end up being seven, very long runs from a roster of more than 250 run options in an area covering nearly half a million acres of CMH backcountry tenure.
The CMH Purcell backyard is indeed endless, and the Bell 212 – the classic machine that heli-skiing was built on – immediately gave us access to the best skiing and riding on the planet. The feeling of being safely dropped into the middle of nowhere was awe inspiring, and much to my surprise there was skiing to suite a wide variety of skiing styles from boast-worthy lines to mellow glades.
Personally, it was my first time heli-skiing, and I’m far from an expert powder skier. But I learned to stop fighting my skis and let them do the work. Everything seemed to be in slow motion. And rather than have pressure on my downhill ski which is typical on hard pack, I learned to distribute my weight more evenly and let my knees roll with the soft snow that would build up under my skis and ultimately help initiate the turn. I tried not to overthink and just let myself feel what was going on under my skis.
KIMBERLEY
After a day that will be seared in my memory forever, it was time to head south down Highway 95 toward Kimberley Alpine Resort – one of the lesser known of the eight resorts along the Powder Highway. The drive through the Columbia Valley – with the Purcells on our right and the Rockies on our left – was spectacular.
Winding its way initially along the Columbia Wetlands, past towns like Radium and Fairmount Hot Springs that almost seem frozen in time, we arrived at Kimberley in just under three hours to discover a much gentler, kinder version of the first two resorts we had visited.
Less than a 20 minute drive from Cranbrook Airport, much like other towns on the Powder Highway, it’s another all-season adventure town that has a unique appeal. In the summer there is awesome mountain biking, gorgeous hiking and no fewer than seven 18-hole championship golf courses less than 24 minutes apart, not to mention some fantastic fishing. But’s it’s the skiing we came for, and what we discovered was a hidden gem.
Since COVID and the advent of remote work, there’s been a huge influx of people returning to live and work in the town of Kimberley, or Kimber as its affectionately known. At one time the Sullivan Mine in Kimberley was one of the world’s largest lead and zinc mines, but when it closed in 2001 after nearly 100 years in operation, a number of people left in search of work.
That’s all changed now, and with young families returning in search of a better work/life balance, there’s a new sense of energy to the place. The pendulum has now fully swung from mining to tourism.
It doesn’t hurt that the town is blessed with a legacy of some pretty great infrastructure (an aquatic centre, two hockey arenas, a dedicated curling club, and of course golfing) making it the ideal place to move.
Years ago, the town centre – the pedestrian-only Platzl – had an odd Bavarian vibe going on. It was even home to one of the most celebrated international accordion festivals in the world. But a little over a decade ago, in its infinite wisdom, city council ditched the kitsch and went through a massive re-branding exercise.
At 22 feet high, the world’s tallest free-standing cuckoo clock still stands at one end of the Platzl where if you plug it with a toonie an animatronic version of the town mascot, Happy Hans, emerges from the clock and yodels. But apart from that, the Bavarian theme is all but gone and the town has been reinvented and revitalized. From having been branded the Bavarian City of the Rockies in the early 70s, the new slogan is A Good Place to Be.
This newfound energy is what drew Brian Fergus back to Kimberley. After working in the mine for years, like so many he left for Vancouver in 1982 in search of work when things shut down.
Today, he’s back in Kimberley and working in the ski rental shop at the base of the mountain. “I had always planned on coming back,” says Brian. “This has always been home. Everybody knew the mine wouldn’t last forever. Tourism has brought the town back to life. This is my retirement job! There’s nothing you can’t do here – there’s fishing, hiking, and a ski hill practically in town. And there isn’t a panic to do anything here. Being a smaller place it’s laid back. ”
Like other towns along the Powder Highway, the people who live in Kimberley are really passionate about this place they call home. Throw in some world-class skiing nearby and you can quickly sense where the magic happens.
On the mountain itself, there may not be the spectacular peaks and hard charging skiing you have in Revy and Kicking Horse, but Kimberley is a more gentle, family-friendly, unpretentious sort of place. It almost feels like a private ski club where it’s not unusual to find yourself the only one on a run. And it’s also deceptively big.
Today, Kimberley Alpine Resort has the perfect combination of sunnier days and light Purcell powder (storms tend to blow in and out faster because of the size of the valley floor so there’s lots more sunshine).
With over 1,800 acres of terrain, 80 named runs and glades, an enhanced beginner’s area and a range of true ski-in/ski-out accommodations, there truly is something for everyone – long intermediate trails, exciting glades and steep terrain for the advanced skier and rider. The piste grading looks something like this: Beginner: 20%, Intermediate: 42%, Advanced: 38%.
The backside of the mountain has some challenging skiing and there are some really sweet glades tucked away off the Easter Chair. The North Star Express Quad on the front side of the mountain also has some great runs and there are some awesome blue cruisers for the more intermediate skier.
FERNIE
While Kimberley can’t be beat for its genuine quaint factor and everything else it has going for it, Fernie is a different town, and a different mountain altogether. The word epic is overused, but in the case of Fernie, it’s well deserved. Skiers don’t talk about runs here, they talk about bowls.
This legendary mountain has it all – five alpine bowls each with their own unique appeal (Cedar, Lizard, Currie, Timber and Siberia), ungroomed steeps, chutes and open glades as well as long groomers to warm-up on. If conditions permit, after a few warm up runs, try heading to the top of the new Polar Peak chair and ski some epic alpine before exploring the expansive tree skiing terrain below.
“It’s wild and woolly here,” says Nels Sherman, one of 125 highly skilled instructors/guides who work at Fernie. “They call it the Powder Highway for a reason. We have a serious amount of snow here. We are actually a temperate rainforest so it’s a good deal wetter. This is the Lizard Range (a sub-range of the Crowsnest Range) and so storms will come across and hit the mountain and release a ton of moisture. This is the sweet spot!”
It’s no surprise then that Fernie has the biggest budget to mitigate and manage avalanches after Whistler. Three quarters of the entire top of the mountain has to be controlled by ski cutting or avalanche in order to make it safe and skiable. It’s why Fernie assign some of their best instructors and guides to give complimentary mountain tours for anyone who wants help getting to grips with the mountain and its vast terrain. It’s highly recommended and it happens every day beginning at 11am at the Winter Sports School Meeting Place – Mountain Tours sign beside the base of the Deer Chair.
Fernie town itself – a 10 minute drive from the base of the mountain – is a turn-of-the-century mining town with some beautiful historic buildings, some great restaurants and buzzing bars and an unbelievable backdrop of the Rocky Mountains wherever you look. I’m told that David Beckham was spotted here in town last year when he was visiting Island Lake Lodge, the ultimate destination for luxury cat-skiing just outside of Fernie.
With just over 6,000 souls, this is a town that punches way above its weight and size. Though apart from some high end homes and more bars and restaurants than you might expect, it still remains a hidden gem, and locals like it that way.
If you have enough energy left in your legs before heading home, check out the guided evening fat bike and snowshoeing tours. Gary Stangl leads the fat bike tours and his wife Sue leads the snowshoe tours. Both depart from the rental shop at around 4:30pm– a magical way to explore some of the trails through the forest at the base of the mountain as the light slowly fades.
Gary, who retired here a few years ago, told us that those that live around the base of the mountain are known as “hillies” and those who live in town are “townies”. No matter where you live, or how you come to experience Fernie, this in my books is the ultimate ski destination – the jewel in the crown of B.C.’s Powder Highway.
Revelstoke Recommendations:
Some great tacos and a street food style menu with wide range of tequila and mezcal drinks. The retro bowling lanes tucked away behind the bar in an adjacent room is a fun touch.
Art Alleries – Arts Revelstoke
Revelstoke’s public art initiative transforms downtown alleyways into outdoor art galleries.
After years of perfecting their craft, Dose now not only makes a great coffee, but they do their own roasting in-house to oversee the entire process from bean to brew.
There are locations in town and at the base of the mountain. Great spot to grab a coffee before heading up the mountain. There’s also great sandwiches and pizza.
A great option if you are looking for something in downtown Revelstoke.
Sutton Place Hotel Revelstoke Mountain Resort
A fabulous ski-in ski-out option at the base of the mountain.
Kicking Horse / Golden Recommendations:
Great spot at the base of the Golden Eagle Express Gondola. It offers traditional king and queen rooms as well as one, two and three bedroom condo suites. All are appointed with full kitchens, fireplaces, and private balconies with views of the resort.
Canada’s most elevated dining experience, this is a must for lunch and dinner with staggering mountain views. Reservations are highly recommended and the two suites located above the restaurant are the only accommodations that sit at the top of a mountain in the Canadian Rockies.
This is their only day heli-skiing destination. Located minutes from downtown Golden, this is a great addition to your B.C. Powder Highway adventure. The day includes unlimited runs. You’ll ski and ride with just two groups of up to eight guests, plus two guides.
Amazing little spot in downtown Golden. Awesome baked goods, coffee and fresh pressed juices.
Located in downtown Golden, these guys craft some wicked small batch, Belgian-inspired and West Coast influenced beers.
This is what a mountain town restaurant should look like. Located in downtown Golden, they make a mean steak, and their homemade burgers are legendary. There’s live music on Sundays!
This is THE spot for upscale dining in downtown Golden.
Kimberley Recommendations:
This is the premier ski-in ski-out property steps away from the high speed quad. Great place to stay if you are planning on skiing under the starts on the longest lit run in North America – Kimberley offers night skiing every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening till mid-March.
Tod Caton is a very plugged in member of the Kimberley community and his company not only runs transportation services but they also have a great roster of private homes to rent close to the base of the mountain. The Stemwinder Chalet is a 3500 sq ft luxury chalet that is simply gorgeous.
A cozy cocktail bar in downtown Kimberley with some great food and beverage options.
Fantastic wood-fired pizza in the Platzl in downtown Kimberely
When it opened just over 10 years ago, it marked the transformation of the Platzl from kitsch to cool. Great menu filled with fine dining and casual options.
Beer and BBQ joint in the Platzl in downtown Kimberley. Great spot for a pre-dinner drink.
Great spot in the Platzl in downtown Kimbereley for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. They also have a Quick Service Café with a large selection of takeaway items including fabulous sandwiches.
Located inside the Centex gas station in downtown Kimberley, this place has amazing in-house made healthy soups, sandwiches and salad bowls. Jill Bentley-Lobban is the brains behind the operation. There’s a great Grab n’ Go in store, as well as a bakery, groceries, and pressed juices by Stoke Cold Pressed Juice, another of Jill’s business ventures.
A beautiful, minimalist coffee shop in downtown Kimberley that also makes some wonderful freshly baked cookies and croissants.
Fernie Recommendations:
This is the perfect ski-in ski-out option in Fernie. The outdoor pool and hot tubs overlook the mountains. There are 14 units in the main lodge and 85 residential-style condominiums in two adjacent buildings.
This is a wonderful restaurant located in Lizard Creek Lodge. This is the best of fine dining with mountain views. Open for breakfast, lunch, après and dinner. The ribs are to die for!
Nevados Tequila & Mezcal Lounge
This Latin American inspired restaurant in downtown Fernie is off the charts. The tacos are fantastic but the entire menu is superb.
This sushi spot is a local favourite. Located just on the edge of downtown Fernie, the food is fresh, varied and beautifully presented. Try the famous “Fernie Roll” or giant dragon roll.
A family-run operation with a strong connection to its local community and located just outside the town centre, Fernie Brewing has grown into one of B.C.’s most successful breweries.
A great little spot in downtown Fernie.
Beanpod Chocolate, Gelato & Coffee
Home of the famous Fernie Bars this is what they call bean-to-bar. They grind their organic beans for small batch chocolate that is swoon worthy.
A great spot to grab a bite and listen to some live acoustic, jazz and blues in a repurposed bank building in downtown Fernie. The bank vault is still visible in the bar area.
The Fernie Taphouse – a local favourite
Fernie’s most popular spot for drinks and live music at the base of the mountain. Try the world-famous “Après, Mogul Smoker’.
Fully guided evening tours offered every Thursday night from 4:45pm to 6:30pm. A great way to experience the tranquility of an evening winter bike ride and headlamps are provided. Fernie Alpine Resort runs these tours.
Take a late afternoon or evening loop on one of Fernie Alpine Resort’s snowshoe trails through the mountain’s beautiful tranquil forests. A great way to work up an appetite for dinner!
Great hand-crafted spirits in the heart of downtown Fernie.
Definitely worth a visit, this beautiful building is an important example of Fernie’s rich history and colourful past.
Additional Resources:
https://www.powderhighway.com/
https://www.hellobc.com/
https://www.instagram.com/PowderHighway/
https://www.instagram.com/HelloBC/# #hellobc #powderhighway
